Basic Pattern Set

The Basic Pattern Set – Front and Back No. 2

Hey Everyone!

Yesterday I spent some good quality time staring at my voluptuousness in the mirror working on my second muslin for this basic pattern set I’m after.

From version 1, I had made the mods to the flat pattern and with complete confidence sewed up this second version.  Really, I had complete confidence that I was going to walk away from that mirror with  a conquering swagger like nobody’s business!

Yea, right…

So here is the front as sewn…DSCF0885

And the back…DSCF0884

I had high hopes.

Just dashed.

So…back to the proverbial drawing board.  I need a plan.  I wiggle around in this thing and try to pin point all these problems I’m feeling.  I guess the first thing is the back at the waist line.  I know it’s bunching up in the back but it is also tight.  I decide it’s time to start slashing!

Wow…what would happen if I made two big slashes right up the near middle?DSCF0886

Holy moly…look how much tension that released!!!  That back center seam just dropped about 4 inches below the waistline.  Could that be real?  And look how much the slashings are spreading?  This is a telling moment for sure.  So I add some fabric behind the slashings and secure them in…DSCF0889 I think I might be on to something.  I trimmed up that waistline too (shortened it).  I’m not sure exactly what to do now that because I opening up some room at the waist it shifted into the side and armhole but I’ll come back to that.  What is bothering me next is the front.  I’m still not happy with this side and waistline dart combo.DSCF0885

The bust point is fine but there’s just TOO much room again, my sea turtles are swimming with the jellies! (Finding Nemo reference for the unenlightened).

Now, I basicly do the same thing as before with my small bust adjustment but this time I TAKE OUT THE SCISSORS and SLASH!  I’m tired of pinching and pinnig!  What is it going to take with you  you basic pattern!?!!!DSCF0890 And that side dart!  Can we just get rid of that thing?  I mean, does that have to be there?  Is there some code of sewing ethics that says you HAVE to be there?  Can’t I just move that fullness to the waist? 

GONE!!!!  Tired of You, you evil side dart…DSCF0891

And with that…the fabric just releases, but now I’ve got to increase the waist dart.  I mark my bust point and use my new found love of slashing and spreading and slash up from the waist to the bust point and sew in that overlap.  Stay with me here…I did not put a dart but an overlap.  My theory here is that if I can get a smooth line I can take this whole front piece once finished and cut in the waistline dart at the flat table later. My theory is that once I cut in the location of the dart the fabric will spread and the whole front will lie flat…revealing my dart!  It’s a theory and I’m going for it!

Now…Here’s the front with that dart overlapped and sewn down…DSCF0890

And now in the back I can slash and overlap some of that drag…DSCF0893

I probably need to do a little more but that is it for today.  Tomorrow I’ll continue onward!  My confidence was shaken early on friends but I think I may have stumbled onto something and it’s looking up!

~Stay tuned!

~Cathy

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3 thoughts on “The Basic Pattern Set – Front and Back No. 2”

  1. Hmmm… have you looked at that fitting video I gave you that I ordered and got two of??? You are making this look too complicated for me and she made it look so easy! She also likes the French dart at the bottom side and I can actually see why. I plan on incorporating that into my next blouse (tee or what have you). Maybe you could take a look and tell me what you think?
    Love, MOM

  2. Come to think of it… you do not have the video I was referring to. That video is more a lesson on how to spot the problems that need fixing and how to do it. This pattern you are working on is more or less a sloper that conforms to your body. In fact, I read at one time that these fitting patterns are made so you can tell where the pattern company is coming from as these are slopers for the mannequins they use to make all the patterns for their company. Hence, the reason all the different pattern companies have their own version. By making this and fitting it to your body as you want it, you can use this guide to make any pattern from their company with good results (in the size you chose) by using all the corrections you make on the sloper. It might also alert you to which size you should be using to make the orrections. If they tell you to use a high bust measurement to get the best neckline fit then I think you should go with whatever size that would be and make the corrections from there. Apparently the thinking for that is the neckline is the hardest area to get correct and the bust and shoulder width are easier to fix. With that information, do you really need a size 20?

    1. Yes, you are right, these basic fitting patterns are made from the company’s standard sizes, so basicly everything from that pattern company in that particular size is going to fit more or less like this basic shell. So if you can work out the alteration to the basic shell than you know what kind of alteration you’ll need to do for a pattern in that size. From what I can tell Butterick and Vogue are the same.

      For me, this is good experience. Yes, I do need a size 20, as of late maybe even a 22. So sad to see my waistline grow and grow! Yikes!!!!

      One thing I hope to be able to do is take my bodice sloper and match it up to say…the burda pattern sheets and trace off the right size, or develop my own pattern as in my patternmaking days at school. We’ll see!

      The good news is though, I’ve enrolled in a 5K run/walk and just last night was able to run around the gym track 6 times without as much pain as I’ve had in my knee. The workouts have really been helping but no significant weight loss yet. I guess I have to get to that point of being able to exercise continuously before that weight threshold will kick in. Slow going. But progress!

      ~Cathy

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