Tag Archives: pattern alterations

The Basic Pattern Set – Just follow the instructions!

OH!  If it were only that easy right?  Famous last words?  Just follow the instructions, that is what the pattern tells me to do right?

Step 1. Take measurements.  That is easy enough, though I gaze long and hard at the numbers coming off the tape measure.  Can those be accurate?  I do it again repeatedly to no avail.  The measuring tape has a static way of telling you the truth.  You think Karl Lagerfeld thought Adele was “a little too fat”?  Just wait until I CAN sing a smash hit tune!!!!  (Adele, sweetie, we love you just the way your are!) As for me, well, it is what it is.  The workouts have been working but it’s a long long road to getting in shape….sigh.

Step 2.  Make length and width alterations.  I make some preliminary alterations to the torso length but the instructions tell me to hold off on anything else until I’ve had the first fitting…

Step 3. First Fitting:DSCF0804 This is the left side unaltered.  The bust and waist darts need to move.  The side bust dart is too high and the waist dart is too close to center, both are not near or even close to my bust point!DSCF0803 The right side.  I marked with a pencil on the muslin where my bust point was and then moved the waist dart over so it would lie underneath.  I lowered the side bust dart to point toward the new bust point and then did a small bust adjustment  DSCF0793 to pinch out the excess cup allowance.  (I did as the instructions said to do with a C cup…so although I added room it was just a tad too much!).

Then I turned next to the back.  Oh boy, this aint pretty.  I don’t even know where to begin!  For one thing, I have to do this looking backwards into a mirror so it’s a little bit awkward.  Doable but awkward.DSCF0776

I guess the first thing I notice are those wrinkles across the bottom near my waist.  I’m not sure what is going on there but the other thing I notice right off the bat is my upper back needs more room.  I’m quite broad across the back so I opt to do a broad back adjustment…DSCF0794

Slashing the fabric and looking in the mirror to see if that is what will help.  It does… but you can see where I pinned down the right side and I’ve got issues there.  The left side is just hanging free and loose, which totally appears to relax.DSCF0802 One thing as I was working on the back I noticed I had forgot to do was add additional waist circumference.  Oops.  I added to the front but I forgot to add to the back.  I wonder if that had anything to do with me slipping on the ice Tuesday and hitting my head?  Hopefully not. 

Well…I transfer the adjustments to paper and trace out a new paper pattern, truing up the edges and seams…DSCF0789

Hopefully tomorrow I’ll be able to cut and sew a new muslin to check the revised alterations…stay tuned!

~Cathy

Oh, in case you are wondering about the alteration reference it is from my trusty Better Homes & Gardens book on sewing…DSCF0790 It is a gem.  If you can get past the 1961 era decor and occasional reference to women needing to be barefoot, managing the household, and ready for their husbands to come home from a long day at the office (I’m saying this with complete tongue inside my cheek) then you’ll find this book to be a really great reference.  Lot’s of how to and some really great pictures!!!  I know I’ll be showing you more as we go along!

~Cathy

McCalls M5633 Cargo Pant-Entry 2-The Waist Alteration

I’m just going to get right into the alterations. 

I used THIS FORM from the New Mexico University Extension Office and then measured the pattern.

Upon review I fortunately only have to do 2 adjustments.  The length is within my measurements but the waist and hips need to be larger.  I need to add a total of 5 inches in the waist (ouch…I can’t believe it either!) and 3-1/2″ in the hips (girl got booty! hee hee :-) ).

If I needed to add or subtract length I would do that first and then go into the width dimension but since all appears well with the length I’m going to start first with the waist circumference.  As I said earlier, I need to add a total of 5 inches.

I divide by 4 to get 1-1/4″.  I mark this in the upper corner of the pattern like in the photo above and below.

The next thing I do is pin the pocket extension piece to the front, being careful to match the squares and dots exactly.  This is important because I’ll need it later to draw the new side and waist seam.

Then, using a marking pencil or pen (I’m using a sharpie) I extend the lengthwise grainline all the way up to the waist.  On this pattern I’m using the grainline and the lengthen/shorten line as my references points.  I cut down through the grainline and over to the side along the lengthen/shorten line and separate it from the pants.

Next, on a piece of tissue, I draw two lines perpendicular to each other (90 degree angle) and then another line parallel exactly 1-1/4″ away.  These two lines represent those same reference lines, the grainline and the lengthen/shorten line.  The width of the parallel line represents the amount of room I’m adding to the waist.

I then re-position the pieces back together, aligning the front to the parallel line and the cut out piece along the other line.  Once in place I tape these down.

The waist alteration is now finished for now.  I still need to true up the side seams but I’ll wait to do that after I finish the next alteration, which is the hips.

I do the exact same alteration to the BACK pattern piece.  Same everything except I don’t have a pocket extension, obviously.

Tomorrow I’ll post the hip alteration…

Till then…

~Cathy