Tag Archives: North Face Denali Jacket

The JamCat Fleece Project Reveal!

Wow, can you believe this fleece project has been the subject of this blog for over a month? This is definitely one of the longest blogging adventures I’ve been on but friends, it is time to wrap this one up and get right on with the big reveal!

So the last thing I had to do was finish the sleeve hems.  I cut off about 1-1/2 inches and turned under the edges another 1-1/2” and stitched, leaving an opening to thread in some elastic.DSCF0719  Stitch the elastic together and finish the remaining top-stitching…

And Viola!  A Fleece Jacket!

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The chalk marks will come out in the wash.  Friends, this was a fun and challenging project, with 7 zippers!  Two in the underarm mind you!

Thanks for staying with me!  Enjoy!

Update 3-26-13…the JamCat Fleece and Jamba visit Hines VA Hospital…DSCF4156

One year after completing the JamCat fleece, the jacket is holding up nicely!

~Cathy

The JamCat Fleece Project – Sourcing Supplies and Stealth Reconnaissance Missions

Hi Friends!

Oh!  This project is really getting exciting!  Yesterday I went back to Hancock Fabrics to see about getting more supplies for this project.  It is a little bit of a hike to get to their store but I knew they’d have a few of the things I was looking for…and I have coupons so good deal all around – he he!

I was specifically looking for a sleeve/pocket lining fabric, bungee cord clamp thingy’s, that bungee elastic stuff, more zippers and matching thread for the fleece.

The list grew quite a bit but that didn’t happen on it’s own.  We FOUND the inspiration jacket we were looking for.  The inspiration is the North Face Denali Men’s Fleece Jacket and you just would not believe the price.  Here are some photos of this jacket with some surprising details…

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Here is that bungee elastic cord, and bungee cord keeper thingy I mentioned earlier.  Gosh, I just don’t know what the proper terms to use here for these.  I promise I’ll get the right words for future posts but for now its called the bungee cord keeper thingy.  On the North Face brand the cord comes out of the bottom jacket hem through two grommets and there is an O ring looped as a stop measure.  That’s so the cord won’t accidentally come out!  Ingenious.

The seams are surged, that’s nice and top-stitching looks fairly straight forward. DSCF0238 There is a gusset in the sleeve (see below) that I didn’t expect, but makes perfect sense when you think about this piece of clothing being a performance garment.  The fleece is SUPER Plush, much, much plusher than what I could find and ended up getting at Hancock. 

I believe this really plush fleece is called Polartec 300.  In contrast, the Hancock fleece is called Anti-Pill Fireside Fleece and if I had to grade the fireside version for plushness I’d put it somewhere in mid-weights.

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Here’s a photo of the underarm Pit-Zips, as Jim calls them.  Incidentally, I do own a few parkas with this feature and Jim has several jackets that incorporate this same cooling/air-flow design.  The Kwik Sew pattern does not include Pit-Zips nor the gusset so I’m going to have some work with that re-design.  It looks fairly straight forward though, so no worries just yet.

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There are 4 zipper pockets on the front of the jacket with the two side/hand pockets inserted on an angle.  I tried the jacket on and those side pockets are aligned just perfectly to the angle of your arm, very nice!  I can really tell there was some thought to that.

The two upper chest pockets are smaller but one more than the Kwik Sew.

The sleeves are finished off using a lycra spandex.  Jim has a jacket using that technique and it looks really easy to do, much like a bias binding for a quilt edge.  Here’s a closer look at that…DSCF0232

There are some gross-grain ‘sysytem’ tabs on the sleeves, which are used to hook into parkas.  In other words, this fleece jacket can be used to line a parka shell for added warmth.  I don’t need to add that feature as Jim doesn’t have any North Face parkas, but instead I plan on adding a small gross-grain plain loop.  That would work for some of his other jackets made by other brands (those have the clips on the parkas – not the fleece).

There is one more feature that we are adding that is NOT part of the North Face version and that is to line the sleeves.  Jim has a Columbia brand jacket with lined sleeves and he really likes being able to easily get his arms in and out.  It also adds some warmth too as it adds just one more layer for stopping the wind!

In addition, as if there’s not enough here, I’m also going to try a gross-grain ribbon finish across the neck band.  It will be a ‘ we’ll see how that goes’ experience but it looks really nice on the Columbia jacket Jim has so it might be worth it just to give it a try, can’t hurt. 

So all in all there’s quite a bit to this jacket but I think it is all doable.  So lastly, here’s the picks of the fabric!  DSCF0277

The fleece, the lining fabric, the water-resistant contrast fabric in olive, and in black. DSCF0270The collection of zippers!  I have a 30” double seperating parka, 2- 9” sport for the hand side pockets, 2-7” sport for the upper chest pockets and 2-14” purse zippers for the Pit-Zips! 

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2 bungee cord stops along with some cord elastic (Hancock does not sell the thick elastic bungee cord, according to the manager there) and some gross-grain ribbon for all the loops, pulls, and neck band.

…and thread!DSCF0278

Olive green for the serger and black and olive green for the sewing and topstitching. 

Now…it’s on to the pattern edits!

Stay tuned!

~Cathy

The Next Project – The JamCat (North Face Denali Interpretation) Fleece Jacket

Hi Everyone!

Happy 2012!  I had a lovely vacation and am back home and have taken a few days to ponder what my next project is going to be.  Since it is still fairly chilly out I thought this first project of the year might be a fun adventure to sew a fleece jacket!  Whoo Hoo!  There’s nothing like a little fleece to take the chill off, indoors or out!

So some back story here, Jim and I were at Hancock Fabrics once last Fall and we had commented to each other after passing by the big tables of fleece that were lined up on display that making some fleece jackets might be a fun project to undertake sometime.  I had even looked at some patterns and Jim even thought this Kwik Sew 3815 pattern would be just great.DSCF0224 We talked about it needing one of those logos on the back like the North Face jackets and he came up with JamCat.  It needed JamCat on the back.  He said it so quickly like he’d been just waiting for the opportunity to share it with me!  He asked if it could be done and of course I said ‘Sure!’ and the next thing I know I’m getting excited about making this thing!

So with the big fleece sales going on right now I picked up the last few yards of a forest green anti-pill variety.  I found a weatherproof outer layer fabric that was also in the forest green family and will use that for the contrast.

I’ve been studying the pattern and have read the instructions and there’s just a couple of things that bother me with it which I’ll most likely perform one of my design edits.  The first is the zipper length.  The pattern calls for a 34 inch zipper.  My stores do not carry 34 inch zippers, only 32 inch.  I measured one of Jim’s jackets and the zipper is only 30 inches so I know I can go a little shorter in the length, so design edit number one.

The second is the lower band with the elastic.  Jim’s jackets have an elastic cord with a cord puller/release mechanism on either side seam.  This will most likely be a design edit here too, but that will depend on if I can find the elastic cord.

Then third are these sleeves.  These are set-in sleeves with a  contrast on the back of the arm.  It is not the most attractive design to me and I’m thinking about changing the sleeve to a raglan or a pieced sleeve.

Here is the Denali Men’s Jacket by North Face.  It is very similar in styling.

mens denali jacket fig The Jacket retails for about $165.00!!!!  Yikes!  That is a lot for a fleece jacket, I had no idea these were so expensive…holy moly.  I’m sure our JamCat production won’t be nearly as much.

One thing I’d like to do is look at one close up.  I’d really like to see how this thing is made.  Only I’ll need to find it…

In the mean time I am tracing off the Kwik Sew pattern…stay tuned!DSCF0221