Dahlings! Here is a pants pattern drafting, fitting and sewing tutorial to make a pair of trouser pants inspired by Katherine Hepburn’s classic style.
This is a 3 part series which will cover first the drafting of the pattern, then in part 2 I’ll cover the construction and fitting of a sample muslin with any alterations needed and then in part 3 I’ll add any additional design elements and construct the finished pair of trousers.
Part I: Drafting the pattern.
For the Pattern Draft, here is what I used:
- A printout of the pants sloper chapter (chapter 9) from Vintage Sewing’s Modern Pattern Design by Harriet Pepin (1942) -free, although they do accept donations to keep this site available for the public interest.
- Measuring Tape
- Sharp Pencil
- Straight Ruler
- Square, T-Square, or 1-inch square grid paper
- Curved Ruler, French Curve, or Flexible Ruler
- Pattern Drafting Paper (or equivalent — I use the 1-inch square grid paper taped together, I am using Staples Office Supply Brand in this tutorial)
- Clear Tape
- Scissors
Step 1: I took my measurements;
1. Side Length Measurement. To get this measurement I stepped on the tape and brought it up to my waist and recorded the distance. 
2. Hip Circumference. I looked in a mirror to determine the widest area around my hips. I then adjusted the tape so it was level with the floor. 
3. Waist Circumference. I wrapped the tape around my waist, stood up straight and took the measurement.
4. Crotch Depth Measurement. I sat on a chair and placed a ruler next to my side and recorded this depth. 
5. Bottom Circumference. This measurement I actually took from my shoes. I talk about it later.
6. Knee Height. I just measure up from the floor to my knee, although for this pattern I did not use this measurement.
7. Thigh Circumference. Take this measurement around the midpoint of the thigh.
Step 2: Drafting the Pattern.
In case you were wondering what Katherine Hepburn’s measurements were, actually the thought of these measurements really makes me want to offer her some food, she was 34B-22W-33H and 5′7 1/2″ tall. No wonder she looked great! She would have looked great in anything! I suppose it gives me a goal to work towards.
Before I could actually start drafting the ‘Mannish Slacks’ I had to create a Hip Length Sloper. The directions tell me to trace either a skirt sloper or a hip length sloper. I’ll need to draft a new one, my older slopers are way…way…too small. Don’t worry, this did not take long, I just followed the instructions for drafting the Hip Length Sloper and cut out the two pieces.
Moving on to the draft of the trousers, I set aside about 2 hours to read through the directions and start plotting the points on my paper. I followed precisely the steps for Drafting the Mannish Slacks in the book. I found the directions to be very straight forward and easy to follow. I did have to refer back to the diagram in order to figure out where the points were but that was easy enough to do.
There is a diagram of the points. To make this diagram larger in order to see the detail I was able to click on the graphic and a larger file opened in a separate window. On my printout of the chapter I made notations of each of the point locations. If you are following along with this tutorial for your own pair of trousers I recommend doing that now. You’ll save yourself some time later on.
One measurement that is talked about that you’ll need is the leg opening circumference. The directions mention that a man’s trousers typically will extend no longer than 7/8″ of their shoe length. In the photo of Kate above, look at the left leg of the trousers, the circumference appears to follow this rule. I chose to look at the left leg because she is standing with her weight on her left leg and the trousers hang straight.
I measured a shoe of mine and recorded the 7/8th length (my shoe is 10″ long so 7/8ths of 10″ is…7 x 10 divided by 8=8.75″ or 8-3/4″).
I drafted both the front and the back. For the crotch I used both my flexi-ruler and my curved rulers to create the crotch curve. The curve in the front will be more of an L shape. For me, since I have a full derrière, the back curve will slope upwards like a J allowing for the curve of my tush. Some women that are flatter on the backside will need to make this curve more like the L shaped front (just reversed).
The directions say to taper the inseam ‘like the diagram’. I curved the inseam slightly and made a note to myself that I’ll most likely need to fine tune this on the muslin. As a side note, all of these curves I’m doing are really just design and is what looks good to me on paper. Later, when I try on my muslin I’ll be able to check my design and make adjustments where necessary.
I cut the draft in half, separating the front and back.
I then drafted a cuffed hem. Kate’s trousers look like they have about a 1-1/2″ cuff. To make the cuff I first fold back along the hem line and crease the paper.
I used the crease as a guide from the other side to then fold it on top of the pattern. The underside of the paper is now facing out.
Next, I drew a line that is 1-1/2″ up from the hem and squared it across the leg.
I folded down along this line.
Here you can see the three segments…
To make the cut along the side sewing lines I fold the cuff and extend the sewing line to the new bottom of the pants like so.
Then cut along the line.
The pattern now has a 1-1/2″ cuff.
Next up is a front pleat. On Kate’s trousers, they appear to be almost flat front or a sewn down pleat. I can’t tell exactly but to me it looks like there is some roominess in her hip area which would mean there’s got to be a pleat. So I added a pleat. To do this, on the front pattern piece I used what is called the ’slash and spread’ technique. I cut along the crease line from the waist to the top of the pant cuff.
I spread the slash open 1 – 1/2″ and inserted a piece of paper that I had drawn a T-square guide line. The edges of each piece can now be repositioned. I’m only guessing on the amount of the pleat and the location at this point. This is design, a lot of it is trial and error, or simply just working out what looks good. I’m using the center crease line as my position and will make a note to check this on the muslin.
Now for the back dart. The directions suggest shortening and straightening the dart to be parallel with the center back seam. Here’s how I’m going to tackle this.
First I’ll shorten the dart to a length of 4″. I find the center of the dart and measure down 4″. Then from this new point I redraw the sides of the dart up to the waist.
Since I have to shift the dart to be parallel to the center back seam I first draw a parallel line to the center back that is 4″ and mark this with a dot. I then cut out the dart and reposition the point of the dart. I find that when I cut the dart out completely its easier for me to relocate. I just tape it back down in its new position.
Insert a piece of paper behind the dart and true-up the waistline by folding the dart in half. Fold the dart towards the center back (just as you would when you press after sewing) and redraw the waistline over the dart.
I cut along the new waist line over the dart.
The pattern is now made and ready to be cut out of muslin. I draw on some preliminary locations for a front and back pocket. After I fit the muslin I’ll finalize the position for these and make the patterns.
Stay tuned…part 2 will be cutting, fitting, and altering the muslin.
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(Added to this post October, 23 2008) Below you will find some ‘Automatically Generated’ links. These are done by WordPress and unfortunately I do not have anyway to get rid of them. Something to do with advertising.
I do go back and click on some of these links just to see what they are and I will have to tell you that the Sewing Secrets link has got to be a certifiable hocus pocus piece of crap. Please don’t actually get fooled and give whoever this person is any money over the internet…please, please, please don’t do that. There is no SECRET to sewing. Please do not fall for any of this garbage…
Cathy
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