Category Archives: Patternmaking

The Crutch Bag Project – The PDF Files

I know it has been a year since I made (and used) my crutch bag but I have had some requests for the pattern that I used, for all you who waited patiently, this post is for you!

The following are three pdf files, each file is a different pattern piece for the crutch bag.  I do apologize however, for the life of me I could not figure out how to make this one file!

Here are the files:

The Front and Back Pattern Piece

The Side Panel Pattern Piece

The Outside Pocket

When printing these you’ll need to print without scaling or print actual size.

You can use these pattern pieces and follow along with the entire Crutch Bag Project Posts to make your own until I can figure out how to make all of the instructions and the pattern into one pdf.  (Please, if anyone has insight on the best program for that please let me know!)

This pattern is intended for use by anyone who may ever need to rely on crutches and is not intended for production manufacturing.  It is my gift to you, the injured or disabled, in the hopes that your life may somehow be better, and a little more independent!

Enjoy!

~Cathy

The Pants Update – Revisiting the Katherine Hepburn Pant Tutorial

Hi Everyone,

In the next few weeks, as I sew from my list of fun new projects (including pants!), I am going to embark on a series of posts that will update two older posts from 2008 called “The Katherine Hepburn Inspired Trouser Pants”.

Those posts were my first attempt at a tutorial and I think you all will agree with me that the whole pants drafting tutorial NEEDS to be updated!  It’s time.  Sadly, most of the links in those posts don’t work (or tragically send you off to Auto Body shops!), and I think you all would find it interesting if I revisited this basic pant pattern and gave you some updated information…and give me an opportunity to make a few more video tutorials!  Sound like a fun time right?  I thought so!

So this is an announcement for anyone that might have that tutorial linked up or saved on their computer, at the end of these new updates I am going to take down that original post.  The new posts will be in a project series format similar to the other projects you see on the right.  If you want a print out of the old posts for posterity sake be sure to do that soon!

I sure am looking forward to this fun new series!  I hope you are too!

~Cathy

 

 

Going Back to the Nightgown Project – The Photo Finish

Mom made a request to see some photos of the finished Nightgown.  And I am ever so happy to oblige!

Front View:

Side View:

Back View:Front Band Closeup:Front Lace Closeup:Back Lace Closeup:Back Lace Shoulder Closeup:Lace Hem Closeup:

Okay…Hope that covers the bases for the nightgown project.  Friends, I AM NOT GOING TO MODEL THIS for you!  Lordy, Lordy that would be sooooo not right.  You all will just have to use your imagination is all….

~Cathy

The Nightgown Project – Part 10- The Lace Hem and Reveal!…A Talkie!

Hi Everyone!

I guess I’m not going to have much to say as far as typing goes today!  I made another video!!!

The nightgown is finished and it turned out really nice!

I had to break up the video into 2 in order to post it to Youtube, sorry about that, but here you go, enjoy!

Part 1:

Part 2:

Now all I need to do now is work on digitizing this pattern and making it available to all of you!

Stay tuned!

~Cathy

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The Nightgown Project – Part 9- Basting the Neck Band to the Yoke and Bodice…A Talkie!

Hi Again!

This installment of the Nightgown Project is a fun one!  I woke up this morning and thought…”Hey, let’s make a video!”.

Yes, I actually said that to myself.  I am soooooo not cut out for moving pictures but what the heck.  Here is me (trying my best not to laugh or to totally go blank on the subject matter) explaining what I did to get the Neck Band attached to the yoke and bodice sections!

Okay…so what did you think?  I know I said I would explain something and then totally forgot to explain it (why I wanted the seam allowance to go down as opposed to going up) and I think I didn’t have all my terminology correct but it was fun!  BTW, I wanted the seam allowance to go down so it wouldn’t show through the lace, I just thought that wouldn’t look good.  I still need to figure out how I’m going to make it STAY down though…

Anyway…even though you only saw the nightgown from the inside out, isn’t it just the sweetest thing?  I really like how it’s coming together and I’m getting excited to finish this one up!

I’ll be sitting down this evening to finish this Neck Band and then I’m ready to put the finishing touches on…just a lace trim along the hem!

A few shots of the nightgown right side out above!

More later!

~Cathy

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The Nightgown Project – Part 8- Sewing the Neck Band

 

Hi Everyone again!

Last night I sewed the Neck Edge of the Neck Band together.  It went together very quickly…

I first sewed the Back Neck Band Shoulder Seam to the Front Neck Band Shoulder Seam on both sides then sewed around the Neckline Edge right sides together…

I pressed the seams, clipped the curves and trimmed out excess fabric…

Then once all that is done I turned right sides out and top stitched, using my edge foot, to set everything in place.And now the next step would be to attach this Neck Band to the Yoke/Bodice of the Nightgown!

That post is coming up next…I think you’ll get a kick out of it!  (Maybe)

~Cathy

Related articles

 

The Nightgown Project – Part 7- Front Band Refining

Howdy All!

I had a chance to work on the nightgown yesterday and one of the things that was bothering me was the Front Band width at Center Front.  It looked a little wonky.DSCF2700 I knew what the problem most likely was, too much width, just how to go about fixing it?

I used a water soluble marker and my seam gauge to fine tune the stitching lines.  This is going to make the V-neck a little deeper but it was my only choice right now since the bottom has already been cut.  We’ll just have to wait and see how this completes to know if it too low.  But then, can a nightgown be too low?DSCF2712 I ironed in some light Pellon fusible interfacing and stitched along the seam line for some stay stitching (and a guide to help me once I connect this with the garment).DSCF2709 I folded up the seam allowances and checked how everything looked on the mannequin, even pinned up some lace to see if the PINK needed to get toned down.  Was this band looking more like an OLYMPIC MEDAL ribbon hanging on the neckline?  Did it need a lace overlay?

Oh!  So many design choices…!DSCF2708 I’ll be continuing to work on this band tonight and most likely leave off the lace overlay as I want to just see how everything is working together as far as the pattern is concerned.  A lace overlay can always come in another edition and going without it I’ll be able to see the LINES of the style clearer.

As a side note and while I’m thinking about it I wanted to let you all know about a recent  comment I received from Charlie Merrow, CEO of Merrow Sewing Machine Co. . A few days after I posted my question to the Internet Ether about ‘Merrowing’ Charlie wrote in with this…

While sometimes it’s tough to read that ‘merrowing’ has become a generic term, we’d like to think that it still describes a process that had a great impact on all of us. The first Merrow overlock machine (which is in fact the first overlock machine, period :)still resides at our facility in Fall River and helped shape the development of garment production for the last century.

We continue to build remarkable sewing machines. One of our core customer groups are designers in the US, Europe and Asia, and we are the only sewing machine manufacturer that will develop clothing prototypes and sew patterns (creating new sewing machines along the way) at a nominal charge – and despite the machines running quite fast, they really are a great addition to the sample room or studio.

Almost every day we’re developing interesting variations of overlock stitches on different materials and with a wide variety of threads – a case in point is our new ActiveSeam stitch, a new versatile flat overlock stitch. With ActiveSeam we’ve introduced new stitch, a new model for marketing stitching, and a development process where we assist the building of new products with ActiveSeam.

In a world with more and more mass produced mediocre schlock, we hope that someday ‘Merrowing’ will be synonymous not with overlock sewing BUT the process of creating innovative and quality overlock seams. We work towards that, every single day.

- Best,
Charlie Merrow
CEO Merrow Sewing Machine Co.

The Internet is an amazing place, isn’t it my friends?  Now I know how the folks at Merrow are feeling about that term being thrown about, would we, or should we say, so carelessly?  And I suppose on a brighter note, I don’t feel so bad anymore about being so ignorant of the term ‘Merrowing’!!  If Merrow themselves would rather not us banter around the sewing room equating ‘serging’ and ‘overlocking’ with ‘Merrowing’ than that’s the way it shall forever be here as well.  Glad we got all that sorted out.  And thank you Mr. Merrow!

~Till next time, keep on sewing!

~Cathy

 

The Nightgown Project – Part 6 – Lace Trim Selection

Hi Everyone Again,

DSCF2656 I’m now at the point in this project where I need to make a decision for the lace trim that will be sewn along the armscye.  I stopped at Hobby Lobby yesterday just to see if they had anything and wouldn’t you know it they did!

DSCF2670 This is actually a stretch lace that I cut in half.DSCF2658 The lace uncut above and cut in half below…DSCF2659 I first pinned the lace in place and stitched along the stay stitching line.  Oh, but before I forget, I did remove the waxed paper, didn’t want to sew that in!  DSCF2672 Then I carefully cut off the excess lace from both the trim and the yoke and then ran a zig zag stitch for one more pass to lock everything in place.

Mom mentioned if I was concerned about the lace holding up on its own to support the rest of the garment.  That is a good question and to be quite honest I have had the same reservation  too but think it should be okay.  This is after all a sample.  In another version I could always add a backing to this section to give more support.  It is something to think about.  On that same note I have thought about adding a lace overlay to the band section that will be coming up next…

It is coming together!

~Stay tuned!

~Cathy

 

The Nightgown Project – Part 5 – Lace

Hi Everyone!

Guess what I decided to use for the lace portion of my project?  Yup, the Jessica McClintock dress.  I cut it apart and just thought oh what the heck, why not!?!

So, I used the skirt portion of the dress to cut out the front and back yoke pieces.  There’s tons of lace, I measured 3-1/2 yards!DSCF2628

After I cut out these pieces I knew I was going to need to figure out how to stabalize the lace in order to sew a correct seam, and actually be sewing on the seam line!  I sure didn’t want to sew by hand so I gave this much thought today and decided to borrow a piece of equipment used in quilting!DSCF2629

Yes!  WAX PAPER!!!

In appliqué  wax paper is ideal because we can trace a design and then iron the fabric to the waxed paper, cut out the design and the fabric will stay attached to the paper as long as the paper gets ironed on to the fabric so the wax has a chance to melt.  Sound interesting huh?  Well, what if I borrowed most of that technique for the purpose of stabilizing this lace and knowing WHERE to stitch?

So that is exactly what I did.  I traced off the pattern pieces, cut out the waxed paper and then layed the lace on top, right side  of the lace up.

I set my iron to a medium setting (don’t want to melt the lace) and ironed away!

DSCF2636 Oh my Goodness!!! It Works!!

DSCF2642

Look!  I’m actually holding up this front yoke by the waxed paper and the lace is stuck, albeit ever so slightly, to the paper!  Cool!!!

Then, my thought here was to stay stitch the lace along the stitching lines and then trim the paper…DSCF2648

I trim the paper close to the stitching line, but not through, and only on the seam allowance side, not the inside.  I’m going to wait to take off the paper after I have the lace stitched to the garment! DSCF2651 Then I stitch the lace yoke to the bodice sections!DSCF2652 My stitching to the garment is just next to the stay stitching line.DSCF2654

That’s it for today!  Tomorrow I’ll be sewing the sides together and attaching a lace trim edge around the armscye.

Till then!

~Cathy

 

The Nightgown Project – Part 4, Cutting Fabric

Welcome Back Readers!

Last night I snuck away for about an hour, while Jim watched Jamba, and managed to cut out the Front and Back bodice pieces.  I am using a Nylon Tricot from Hancock Fabrics for this first sample.  I picked this up the other day when I went out in search of some appropriate night gowny type fabrics suitable for my design.

DSCF2606

The Tricot is wide enough that I do not have to seam the Front!  So I go ahead and place the CF on the fold and pin in place.  As a mental note to myself, I keep in mind that the pattern DOES NOT have seam allowances, this is always something I need to keep repeating in my head so as not to just cut right next to the paper and ruin my project!

For this project I use a really quick and easy technique which yields a 5/8” seam allowance.   It is by using the measuring tape that just so happens to be 5/8” wide!DSCF2608

All I do is butt up the edge of the tape next to the paper and then mark, using a water soluble marker or chalk pencil, the other side of the tape.  Viola!  Seam Allowance.  Now, this only works for 5/8” so if you want smaller or larger you’ll need another tool but for samples this is what I do.  It’s fast and it works.

After the piece is cut out I move over to the sewing machine, load up some thread, and I then reinforce the V point at CF with some stay stitching followed by running gathering stitches across the top edge to draw in the gathers.    I then gather up the fabric and check my work on the dress form.

(My dress form is crudely padded out, friends, it was a duct tape project gone horribly wrong and I hate it, but it works for now…and if you want to know how I feel about duct tape dress forms?  DON”T waste your time and all that money…but I’d have to dedicate that to another post sometime).

Anyway, what I was eager to see was the added fullness.  It appears to be working out just fine.  Yay!  There is something happening unexpectedly with the CF though.  For some reason I’m getting an inverted pleat.  I’m thinking it could be because the fabric has a crease from being folded on the bolt? Or maybe it is the grainline, don’t quite know just yet.  I’m hoping it’s the crease and will just wash out.

DSCF2621

The next thing I need to work out is the Lace Yoke section.

I need some lace for this section and I think I have just the thing.  I forgot that Mom gave me a Jessica McClintock dress that she found at a thrift store (either she found it or someone else did, not sure and can’t remember but I’ve had it in the closet since Christmas) which is ALL lace!  So I don’t need to shop for lace after all…if I so choose to go ahead and recylce this garment!DSCF2610 My thought is to recycle this lace, which is just lovely I might add.  Too nice for my sample?  I don’t know.  I’ll think about it for a little bit.DSCF2619

A closer look at the tag, Made In U.S.A. of imported fabric, Acetate and Nylon and just $16.  I guess it’s not exactly premium quality but it’s not bad!  Cutting off the skirt I get quite a bit of it!DSCF2615 There’s also some embroidered trim along the edge but I don’t think I’ll be using it.  It’s lovely but if anyone knows how to unpick this without ruining it let me know!

My next thought that I’ll need to figure out is how to SEW the lace.  We all know that as soon as lace gets cut it turns wonky and slippery real fast.  I’m going to need a day or two to ponder this one.  If you all have thoughts just send them my way!

And to answer Mom’s question about Curves Ruler.  That was a typo (sorry), I meant to say CurveD ruler.  I think that is what you wanted to know?  What ruler I’ve used for making this pattern, right?  It is this one below.DSCF2575 Sorry everyone if I wasn’t very clear on what I was doing.  The only special equipment I’ve used so far have been this ruler (which is readily available), some gridded paper (Staples),  a sharpie (gasp! but I do that for you so these lines will show up so you can see!) and my Front and Back Basic Bodice Fitting Shell pieces I wrote about back in February in this post.  I know this pattern is going to fit me because I’m using the foundation pattern that was fitted way back then.  Does that make sense?

I hope so!  More later!  (Love you Mom!)

~Cathy