Daily Archives: February 19, 2012

The Basic Pattern Set – Front and Back No. 2

Hey Everyone!

Yesterday I spent some good quality time staring at my voluptuousness in the mirror working on my second muslin for this basic pattern set I’m after.

From version 1, I had made the mods to the flat pattern and with complete confidence sewed up this second version.  Really, I had complete confidence that I was going to walk away from that mirror with  a conquering swagger like nobody’s business!

Yea, right…

So here is the front as sewn…DSCF0885

And the back…DSCF0884

I had high hopes.

Just dashed.

So…back to the proverbial drawing board.  I need a plan.  I wiggle around in this thing and try to pin point all these problems I’m feeling.  I guess the first thing is the back at the waist line.  I know it’s bunching up in the back but it is also tight.  I decide it’s time to start slashing!

Wow…what would happen if I made two big slashes right up the near middle?DSCF0886

Holy moly…look how much tension that released!!!  That back center seam just dropped about 4 inches below the waistline.  Could that be real?  And look how much the slashings are spreading?  This is a telling moment for sure.  So I add some fabric behind the slashings and secure them in…DSCF0889 I think I might be on to something.  I trimmed up that waistline too (shortened it).  I’m not sure exactly what to do now that because I opening up some room at the waist it shifted into the side and armhole but I’ll come back to that.  What is bothering me next is the front.  I’m still not happy with this side and waistline dart combo.DSCF0885

The bust point is fine but there’s just TOO much room again, my sea turtles are swimming with the jellies! (Finding Nemo reference for the unenlightened).

Now, I basicly do the same thing as before with my small bust adjustment but this time I TAKE OUT THE SCISSORS and SLASH!  I’m tired of pinching and pinnig!  What is it going to take with you  you basic pattern!?!!!DSCF0890 And that side dart!  Can we just get rid of that thing?  I mean, does that have to be there?  Is there some code of sewing ethics that says you HAVE to be there?  Can’t I just move that fullness to the waist? 

GONE!!!!  Tired of You, you evil side dart…DSCF0891

And with that…the fabric just releases, but now I’ve got to increase the waist dart.  I mark my bust point and use my new found love of slashing and spreading and slash up from the waist to the bust point and sew in that overlap.  Stay with me here…I did not put a dart but an overlap.  My theory here is that if I can get a smooth line I can take this whole front piece once finished and cut in the waistline dart at the flat table later. My theory is that once I cut in the location of the dart the fabric will spread and the whole front will lie flat…revealing my dart!  It’s a theory and I’m going for it!

Now…Here’s the front with that dart overlapped and sewn down…DSCF0890

And now in the back I can slash and overlap some of that drag…DSCF0893

I probably need to do a little more but that is it for today.  Tomorrow I’ll continue onward!  My confidence was shaken early on friends but I think I may have stumbled onto something and it’s looking up!

~Stay tuned!

~Cathy