Katherine Hepburn Inspired Trouser Pants – Part 2 of 3 Fitting the Muslin

In part 2 I cut out my trouser pants pattern from some inexpensive fabric, sewed them up, pressed them and tried them on to check the fit. Here is what I used:

• 3 yards muslin ( I used some left over sheeting fabric)
• Sharp Pencil
• Marking Chalk
• Ruler with 5/8″ seam allowance markings
• Basic Sewing Supplies (pins, scissors, thread, machine needle)
• Sewing Machine

Step 1: I first laid out my pattern pieces on the fabric and adjusted so my grain line (the crease line) matched the straight of grain of the fabric. I checked to make sure I had enough room around the entire piece to add a seam allowance.

I pinned the pattern piece in place and then with my ruler I chalked out 5/8″ seam allowance around all the sides except the cuff edge. I didn’t add another allowance to that, maybe later, but it wasn’t necessary for the mock up. I’ve had this ruler for about 20 years and it just so happens to have slots that are 5/8th of an inch away from the edge. Works pretty good. The 5/8th seam allowance is something that really only the home sewing industry uses. If you check your ready to wear you’ll find seam allowances of 1/4″, 1/2″, or no inch. I use it because…well…my ruler just works great!

For the front, I did not add on a fly front extension like you see in pretty much every pants pattern. I’m actually thinking I’ll draft a separate piece for the fly when it comes time to make the final. This is just for checking the fit for now.

After the front and backs are cut I sewed the pieces together. First I sewed the darts in the back and the pleats in the front. Then I sewed the front to the back at the side seam right sides together, then the inside seams. I sewed next the crotch with right sides together. I pressed up one side (the right side) pretty good and tried them on.

Step 2: Analysis

It is really hard to look in a mirror and figure out what is going on. Instead, I took a picture of the side, back and front so I could look at the fit without me twisting.

I highlighted all the areas that I’ll need to alter. My notes to self are:
1. Lengthen the leg about 2 inches.
2. Straighten the side seam. The seam pitches forward so I’ll need to adjust that and take in a pinch at the hip.

3. The front looks pretty good other than just as I thought, I’ll need to take out some fabric on the front inseam. I’ll redraw that curve.

4. In the back. Looks pretty good other than a little baggyness between the legs. I’ll take in a little bit more on the back inseam. I also will take in a little bit of the center back at the waist. I may need to redraw the dart so it is parallel with the new center back. The location of the pocket is about right.

Overall I am very well pleased. I do not have too much to do for alterations and know I’ll be soon wearing some really great trousers.

For kicks I took a few pictures of the pants I was wearing at the time of sewing the muslin. Granted, I’d been wearing these all day so they are a little wrinkled (okay…a lot wrinkled!). But hmm….which would you rather wear? I need to hurry!!!

Stay tuned…..